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Home arrow Articles arrow Back to Basics: Appliqué 101
Back to Basics: Appliqué 101
Appliqués can turn a plain piece of fabric into an exciting and fresh new look for clients to enjoy. They can also come to the rescue when repairing old garments that the owner can't bear to throw away. An appliqué, a French word meaning "to put on," describes an embroidery/sewing method where pieces of cut fabric are placed onto a base fabric, usually of a different color. The design technique is used in various forms of embroidery and sewing projects, including quilting, to add 3-D appeal or contrasting shapes and colors to a project. Appliqué work can be done with freehand sewing or with a specialized machine and software system.

"Most fabrics should be prepared for appliqué by fusing them to a polyamide web or similar product," says Deborah Jones, an embroidery industry consultant and writer. A fusible web or polyamide web is a type of backing used to adhere two pieces of fabric together when heated. "The web helps to prevent fraying when appliqués are handled and allows the appliqué to be permanently bonded to the garment when stitching is completed," says Jones. Make sure to follow the manufacturer's directions when using a fusing product. Test the product first before using it on the final piece to avoid garment damage. After applying the web to the reverse side of your fabric appliqué, it should appear cloudy, rather than glassy, explains Jones. "A shiny appearance indicates that too much heat has been applied."

If you are using the pre-cut appliqué method, where appliqué pieces are cut and then placed onto a "target stitch," the appliqué piece is sometimes sprayed with an adhesive for temporary adhesion until it is permanently attached with stitches. "Make sure to apply the adhesive in small amounts by spraying inside a cardboard box to prevent overspray from contacting the sensitive machine parts," says Jones. Keep a box of baby wipes containing alcohol close by when handling sticky appliqué pieces.

When programming a design for appliqué, no matter what appliqué method you use, Jones suggests looking carefully at certain areas of the design to see if small elements can be simplified or combined with others.

Lastly, a safety tip to consider: When you are applying appliqué pieces to the base fabric, the pieces may move during the stitching process. Stop the machine to reposition the pieces when this occurs. "If you must hold a piece in place while stitching, always do so with a long pair of tweezers instead of your fingers," says Jones.

 

Stitches Magazine

 
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